September: What have I been sewing?

If you have been with me for a while - or least for the last 6 months - you will know that I am currently going through a business change to have sewing courses & workshops back up & running. While the paperwork is all in, the waiting process has brought me to a low point of not-wanting-to-do anything. I had mornings I lay in bed, thinking I don't have anywhere to go or to do. Ultimately I didn't sew much this month.


To get me back into the spirit, I had a bit of a destash of my private fabrics. There are still fabrics left, some lovely fabrics from my favourite shops in Canada and the UK, including fabrics from Atelier Brunette and Mind the Maker. Check the shop to get your hands on them.


For a step by step video, I sewed two infinity scarfs and it meant tiny steps back into a sewing routine. One scarf in the Cherry Bomb Navy Rayon and another one in the Ivory Double Gauze. I love both a lot, and cannot wait for the weather to cool down and wear them. It is a super simple and quick project to sew - and makes the perfect gift. If you want to make your own, check out the video on Instagram or Facebook.



As part of a refashion blog post, I used a dress I had sewn last year and turned it into a top with tulip sleeves. I decided on tulip sleeves, because the fabric of the dress wasn't quite enough to cut regular sleeves. The tulip sleeve make the simple top even more special. Along this refashion project, I also tapered some wide leg trousers. All details can be found here.



I sewed up two more Alex Shirt from Sew Over it. I used the fabric I bought in Germany last month - the crinkle viscose with silver stripes. The fabric is so soft and light however one thing I hadn't considered is that the silver stripes are a little scratchy on my skin. So I will have to wear a top underneath or maybe just use the shirt as a layering piece. The fabric is so much softer than the viscose I used last month and changes the look completely. I find this very fascinating how the same fibre content but different weave can change the same garment.


The second fabric for the Alex Shirt is a twill weave rayon. I made quite a lot of changes to the pattern this time - some worked well, others ... well, I have to go back to the drawing board. I wanted the shirt to be a bit more fitted around the bust, so I wanted to add darts. But you cannot just add a dart as it takes away from the length of the front piece plus I didn't want to change the length or the shape of the hem. So I added a dart, which is about 2" in total at the side seam. I then lengthened the front piece by 1" , shortened the back piece by 1" and redraw the curved hem. I also wanted the shoulders to be less dropped, so I thought a narrow shoulder adjustment would do the trick. Something went wrong here and when setting in the sleeves, I ended up with too much fabric in the front piece. I don't really know what happened there. I made it work somehow and had to take even more away which means when I reach forward (a lot) it is a little snug in the back but not too bad. When sewing the collar, I noticed that (again) I had excess fabric and I couldn't understand why because I only adjusted the armhole area and not the neckline. Since I traced the front piece and the yoke from the original pattern pieces, I compared the two front and then I saw something ... when I traced off the pattern, I forgot to cut away some excess paper 🤦‍♀️ so what ever I had successfully removed from the dropped shoulder, I had added again. I unpinned the collar and took the front yoke seam in by about 5/8" and then the collar fit perfectly. Many mistakes here, big learning curve but it's still a wearable garment and fit needs improvement.



Since I started exercising with the start of lockdown, I started exploring active wear a little bit more. I found it difficult to find tops that following my sense of natural fibres and at the same time I wanted tops without sleeves. I used an existing top that I had for years but stretched out a little. The very first version I made a few months ago but the neckband was too long and the straps slide down sometimes. I made a few adjustments and it fits better. What I don't like about Viscose Jersey is that it stretches very differently. I love color-blocking and it means, I can sew up the half metre pieces I bought when I first started sewing. Next up is a sports bra and leggings.


Would an active wear workshop be something you'd be interested in?


On my cutting table I currently have:

- a shirt for my husband

- 2 new samples for Dressmaking 2

- another Lois Dress in the Valentino deadstock rayon


Next month, I'd love to make another anorak. I am wearing the one I made 3 years ago every winter season. But let's not plan too much, in the hope the studio will be back up running.


What have you been sewing this month? What are you sewing plans? Comment below.


Thanks for hanging out with me.

Happy Sewing,

Maria

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Jebel Ali Village, Dubai, UAE     |     maria@threadwerk.com    |     +971 58 576 2739