If you haven’t come across them before, Fibre Mood is a European sewing company that includes a magazine (featuring their new patterns each month), printed and PDF patterns, and retail fabric and notions sold online or through distributors. They’ve worked really hard to foster an inclusive sewing community and publish their pattern instructions in several European languages.
They first came across my radar on Instagram in 2020 during lockdown when they ran a brilliant Social Sewalong campaign for anyone to join from the comfort (or confines) of their own home.
They would offer one of their patterns free each month, and home sewers (or ‘sewistas’ - to use the term that Fibre Mood themselves have adopted) could make their versions as part of a global community.
Fibre Mood describe the pattern as “easy wearing trousers” featuring an elasticated waistband and straight leg. I say ‘secret pyjamas’.
Sizes run from UK 4-30 and there are plenty of options too - cropped or full length; casual or classy (depending on fabric choice).
I chose to make them from a lightweight viscose jacquard that I purchased a while back from ThreadWerk. It’s a lovely cool matte fabric with gorgeous drape.
I chose this pattern as much for sewing ease as wearing ease. I describe my sewing level as ‘adventurous beginner’. Even though I’ve been sewing on and off for decades, I didn’t do much until a year or so ago
I shy away from most trouser patterns as I have a two-to-three size differential between my waist and hips and the adjustments always seems way too complicated for my skill level but I did like that Benita’s instructions suggest choosing on hip size and simply grading between sizes instead of any more complicated adjustments.
Seam allowances are included here, but, they are only 1cm. I’m used to 1.5cm and this became a problem for me later on as I didn’t pay due attention.
FRENCH SEAM ERREUR
The slim seam allowance would have been fine, except I chose to attempt French seams for the first time and I really needed to add some more allowance before cutting. As a result I was too cautious with my seam allowance and in several sections the raw edge was visible outside the seam and had to be trimmed and resewn. There are still a few little loose threads but I think I’ll capture these after a wash or two.
When I was trimming the exposed edges I also realised that sewing with black fabric is hard! Because I tend to wear colours on top and black on the bottom-half and have so far avoided a lot of trouser-making I don’t really sew much with black. I probably need to get some new glasses too though, if I’m honest.
WAISTBAND & TIES
I didn’t find the instructions were very detailed at the waistband and waist ties section. I ended up sewing the ties on the inside by mistake and contemplated wearing them like that but after sleeping on the problem I was able to tackle unpicking them and reattaching them to the outside.
I didn’t have any 5cm width elastic, so I used two lengths of 2.5cm and zigzagged between the two. I can’t locate the tutorial I used for this but it’s fairly logical. When I reattached the waist ties I sewed them straight over the double-height elastic to secure it and make sure it didn’t fold itself in half.
There is a video tutorial available as this pattern was part of their Social Sewalong series, but, as much as I like Kate Ng’s style and substance, I found the real-time YouTube video tedious to skip through to find the point I needed. When I did, I realised that she sewed a version without the optional waist-ties, so the point I really needed guidance on wasn’t covered!
In all, I am very happy with the garment. I wear them to work with unintended fringing and all. I’ve had loads of compliments and they are super comfortable. I will sew more Benita secret pyjamas again for sure! Noni @_the_goodies