It all started out when Maria contacted me via Instagram (you can find me, Katja, @kellerkreativ) asking if I would sew something - specifically a garment - with her fabrics. And, of course, write about it. Sure, I'd be happy to!
Since I'm staying in Dubai for the summer, I am in real need of some flowy summer dresses to - or at least try to - beat the almost unbearable heat of an Arabian summer. Since I had already sewn the Charlie Caftan from (new name!) Closet Core Patterns and I find it's the perfect summer dress, I decided to go for it again. The perfect match for that would be the viscose crepe in olive green with the palm leaves printed on it, which I found on Maria's website. It has a great drape and is very light, though still opaque. Also, it has a teeny tiny stretch to it.
So, after the fabric arrived, the sewing journey began with washing, air-drying - you wouldn't believe how quickly clothes dry here in Dubai if you hang them outside - and ironing. The cutting part isn't one of my favorites. Might be because I'm using my dinner table for it.
Using the pattern a second time, I knew exactly what adjustments to make - none - if grading between sizes doesn't count as an adjustment. As usual, I traced a size 8 for the bust, size 10 for the waist and a size 14 for the hips. I don't know if it is really necessary for the Charlie Caftan, since its natural fit is roomy, but I feel better about adjusting it for my type of body.
Sewing the viscose crepe was an absolute pleasure. It wasn't slippery or shifty at all. I went ahead and just used my 'normal' settings on the machine (a Janome 2130DC) - straight stitch at 2.6 length for the seams and 3.0 length for the topstitching - along with Schmetz Microtex needles because I didn't want to risk to get any punctures in that precious fabric.
The part that gave me a little headache this time - and also the last time - was the bodice part where the gathering is attached. I used up almost all of my pins to get the gathers in the right position and hand sewed them first before putting the piece under my machine. I think it turned out pretty well. By far better than the first time.
Although I find the Charlie Caftan is a great pattern, my next make will definitely be a Zadie Jumpsuit by Papertheory. It will also be my second make of it. And it's also perfect for beating the Dubai summer heat.
Have a great summer!
ThreadWerk: Thank you so much Katja for sharing this gorgeous dress with us. If you want to make the same dress, find the paper pattern is currently sold out but you can get the PDF on Closet Core Patterns' website. Use the same fabric, or these fabrics would work great too: