This pattern comes in two variations: slim-fit chinos or Bermuda shorts. The pattern suggests cotton fabrics such as twill or chambray which also can have a small stretch content. But it isn’t recommended for jerseys or similar.
The pattern comes in sizes 44 to 54 (EUR) which is equal to a UK 34 to 44. I made a size 54. I bought this pattern during one of my visits back home in Germany. Since I have some other Burda patterns, which I bought in the UK, I noticed that for the German version I had to add the seam allowance to all pattern pieces. While the patterns bought in the UK had seam allowances included. Maybe it was just a coincidence but has anyone experienced similar?
If you have sewn one of the big pattern companies before, you might know that instructions are not always easy to follow. Especially as a beginner, you will have to remember to finish your seam allowances at the right stages. The two tricky steps are the fly front zipper and the welt pockets.
For the fly front zipper, I recommend YouTube tutorials. I watched Mimi G’s videos for her sewing jeans series and this sew-along was most helpful to me. For the welt pockets, I watched different tutorials but I have yet to complete the perfect welt pockets.
The pattern also doesn’t suggest any top-stitching, aside from the front fly and the waist band, so you’ll have remember this yourself. Especially if you want to strengthen some of the seams or add tacks.
I have made this pattern already four times in four very different fabrics.
My very first pair of these shorts were made in a suiting/crepe like fabric. I practiced the welt pockets a few times on scrap fabric before but still they turned out with puckering. Also below the fly front zipper was some puckering and the shorts overall turning out a bit snug in the crotch area. Sweet of my boyfriend to have worn the shorts a few times until the next pair was sewn up for him.
The second version is made from a linen-look cotton voile. Here the fly front zipper and overall look turned out almost perfect even the welt pockets are good. But the fabric doesn’t hold its shape for long and looks very saggy after couple of hours wearing.
Number 3 of these shorts turned out fine but some stitching around the welt pockets didn’t stay during the first wash so the corners of the welt pockets are a bit frayed. This version was made out of a charcoal grey chambray.
For my most recent version in a red chambray I omitted the welt pockets and went for traditional jeans back pockets with some (pat on the back) amazing top-stitching.
All of the versions have some fun & colorful fabrics for both pocket types. That’s a great way to use up any fabric scrapes from your pretty dress fabrics and give your partners shorts/trousers that personal touch.
One pattern, four fabrics: I used crepe/suiting fabrics, cotton voile and chambray. I still have an olive linen in my stash but since the linen-look cotton voile turned out saggy, I might use that for a shirt instead. I also have some jeans fabric, more twill in navy blue and burgundy (from the Kelly Anorak left over).
I didn’t make many alterations to the pattern. Only the first version had the original waist band but for all the other versions I made the waist band wider. Therefore I also had to lengthen each belt loop. With these two alterations you can fit a wider belt through.
I would recommend this pattern to others and this is definitely my go to pattern for my boyfriends shorts. The longer, Chino pants, version is also on my list for this years #makenine2018 & #menmakenine2018.
Once all pieces are cut out, it takes a good uninterrupted weekend to sew all pieces together.
The biggest compliment I could ask for is that he puts on the shorts without me suggestiong it. He really likes the pattern, and most fabrics he picks out himself anyway.
What’s your go to men shorts/trousers pattern? Can you recommend any good welt pocket tutorials or sew-alongs?