Many moons have past since I wrote a blog post. I haven't sewn a lot this year, as in trying out new pattern. I have repeated my usual favourites and added to this list with the Jasika Blazer.
The Jasika Blazer is a classic tailored jacket with a semi-fitted shape. This jacket is fully lined and features a classic notched collar, single-button closure, back vent, shoulder pads, welt pockets and gorgeous two-piece sleeves. Optional details include pocket flaps, topstitching, decorative sleeve cuff buttons, and leather or suede elbow patches.
I had bought a striped cotton linen long time ago and always wanted to make this blazer with a matching pair of trousers (or shorts) - just like one of the pattern samples on Closet Core's website.
The pattern comes in two versions. The main difference between both version is the flap on the welt pockets, a chest pocket and top-stitching around the lapel. The fit and sleeves is the same for both. The pattern is available as paper pattern and PDF by Closet Core Pattern. It comes in sizes 0 to 20 (bust: 79 cm till 117 cm).
I made a size 16, at the time of the first blazer and toile I had the following measurements:
- Bust 41 1/2" (between 14 & 16),
- Waist 36" (between 16 & 18)
- Hip 45" (between 16 & 18)
Continue reading to follow all pattern adjustments
This pattern has gazillions of pattern pieces, you really have to stay on top of your game. I sorted the pattern pieces into: jacket fabric, lining fabric and interfacing pieces. I think I have never been so organized. I also made all pattern adjustment in a different colour, so I can understand which adjustment I made at which stage of the fit journey,
My very first blazer I made at the beginning of this year. I made a toile using calico to get the pattern adjustments right. After this toile, I made the following pattern adjustments:
- 2cm broadback adjustments (my usual)
- shortened the pattern by 3cm at the waist and another 2 cm at the shortening line
- shortened sleeve by 6 cm
- shortened shoulder seam by 1/2"
- took in centre back seam by 1cm (above the waistline) as I had lots of fabric above my (rather large) bum
I used a linen viscose fabric in black with a pink/white viscose sateen as lining.
Because I didn't try the toile (calico) jacket on with the shoulder pads, the bust dart was a lot longer on me. It did say in the instructions to try the toile on with the pads. The black jacket is a good wearable toile and I have worn it lots already.
It's hard to see due to the black fabric but the sleeves feel a little tight when moving my arms forward. When the jacket is closed, the back vent pops open a little. There is also extra fabric above the bust. With this wearable toile, I went on with the following further adjustments:
- shortened the bust dart by 1/2"
- let out back side seams by 1/4" (0.6cm)
- small bust adjustment (not the usual way but steps Closet Core patterns suggest in the fit booklet).
- full bicep adjustment for sleeves
With these adjustments, I cut the linen cotton fabric I had for many years and used one of our viscose sateen fabrics for the lining.
I made two (for me major) mistakes but they are actually minor if I am being honest to myself. I forgot to cut the interfacing pieces with the pinking shears and now the edges of interfacing are a little visible due to the dark lining fabric against the lighter jacket fabric. But since it's on my back, I am telling myself if I can't see it, no-one else can see it. I still wonder if it would be visible anyway since the dark lining. Second mistake, I used a different fabric for the pockets and didn't cut the facing pieces for the pocket. I wish I would have used the lining fabric for the pockets. I find the quilting cotton fabric a little heavy.
The pattern comes with faux button placket, meaning you sew on the buttons as design feature only. I initially sewed on the buttons for decoration but didn't quite like this. I really like to roll the sleeves up a little so that the lining is visible. Around my lower arm, I find the sleeves tight when I roll them up. That's why I wanted to try and change the pattern and sew an actually sleeve vent, buttonholes and buttons. So onto the next jacket!
I think I had the crazy thought of this floral suit around April. I remember creating a video for social media around fabrics great for beginners, and this was one of the fabrics I talked about during the video.
I then went onto Instagram Stories to talk about the crazy thought I just had. Most people that messaged where pretty supportive and thrilled by the idea of a floral suit. I got busy and in July I decided to cut the outer fabric for the jacket.
Meanwhile, I was on the hunt for a lining fabric. Since the jacket fabric is floral, I needed a plain lining fabric. I found some along with buttons during my trip in the US, at Stylemaker fabrics. It's a Rayon bemberg and I hated it! Oh dear, cutting this fabric was such a pain, even with a rotary cutter. Sewing the lining jacket was a pain too. There are a few puckers on the inside but I didn't care about it. I tried using a walking foot but it didn't make it better to be honest.
The other two jackets have a viscose sateen as lining and I love it. It's slippery enough to glide in and out of the jacket; but still a bit weight to it making it easy to sew. The rayon bemberg is so thin, I can actually feel the horse hair canvas around the sleeve seam. So for anyone that is looking for lining fabric, personally I would recommend a viscose sateen fabric instead.
Speaking of fabric, the stretch cotton was an absolute dream to work with. If I could recommend a fabric for your first blazer, it's stretch cotton. It presses so well and just behaves - if you know what I mean. I noticed how lovely it is when attaching the lapel and pressing it. It just came together. With the other two blazers, I had to use more steam and work the fabric where it needed to sit.
By the way, I purchased the online class from Closet Core patterns and it definitely helped for the first two jackets. There are extra tips during pressing. Heather Lou is a fabulous instructor with a wealth of knowledge. I absolutely love their online classes and also purchased the jeans making class. The project has really lovely tailoring techniques. This is an awesome project for anyone that is looking to challenge themselves and learn new and professional tailoring techniques. I normally don't like hand-sewing but I truly enjoyed all of the catch and overcast stitches by hand.
I have one tailoring kit left - I purchased the kits from Core Fabrics directly. It saved me time to source all interfacings, shoulder pads and more myself. I just need to find another fabric to make one more blazer :)
Thanks for hanging out with me. Have you made a blazer or other lined jacket yet?